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Beamlock Instructions

Beamlock Instructions 1 - 3

Mark out all the locations where the bottom of the post feet will be located on the foundations (setting out). (1)

Note: This information can be taken from the garage/car port floor plans (see picture marked 9).

Slip the timber “shroud” over the top of each post and slide down. Temporarily secure this above and clear of the metal foot (base plate), (2) as this will be permanently fixed later. Note: The shroud may be required to move up or down to a temporary position during assembly and secured later.

Each beam and post (with the exception of the two support posts on the car port) have pre-cut mortise slots (4) ready to accept the metal strengthening bar that protrudes from either end of the wooden brace. (5)

The metal bar in the brace is offset to one side, having a timber thickness of 18mm on one side (thin side) and a thickness of 30mm on the other (thick side).

All posts and beams are numbered and each one has to be positioned in the correct place as well as facing in the right direction in order to accept the braces correctly.

In order to ensure correct assembly, posts are marked with a number on the top and a letter to the side, where beams adjoin. (6)

Beams are marked with a corresponding letter to the side. (7)

Before assembly all the components should be laid out and checked that they are in the right position and that all brace slots on both the posts and beams correspond to one another. (8)

Posts should be located by number as indicated on the build plan floor plans (9) and each letter marked on the posts must adjoin the corresponding letter on the beams to ensure the correct assembly.

Beamlock Instructions 4 - 5

Beamlock Instructions 6 - 7

Beamlock Instructions 8

Beamlock Instructions 9

Lay two posts on a flat surface and position a short beam between them. The two metal tubes that project from the end of the beam should be positioned around (above and below) the single metal tube that projects from the metal “cruciform” at the top of the post. In all cases the beam should be offered up to the post with the nib in the beam plate protruding upwards.

The beam is then secured to the posts by gently hammering a long pin into the post connection, (10) locking the beam plate to the cruciform (apply grease to all pins for ease of insertion/removal).

Note: All pins will stand slightly proud of the top surface of the post; this is intentional as a further fixing is required later. (11)

Once two posts have been joined to a short beam, with assistance place the newly formed “goalpost” vertically in the setting out positions and temporarily support (e.g. with scaffold board). (12)

Beamlock Instructions 10 - 11Beamlock Instructions 12 

Check that the post tops are horizontal using a spirit level and straight edge, or other means. (13) All post tops must be at the same level. Establish the desired eaves height by adjusting the base plates (14).

Carefully check that the location of the posts are correct and then for each of the two posts drill four holes at a slight angle through the existing openings at the bottom of the base plate and into the concrete foundations, (15) sufficient to fix M10 x 100mm anchor bolts. (16)

 Beamlock Instructions 13 - 14

Beamlock Instructions 15 - 16

With assistance and sufficient support raise another post into an approximate position forming a 90º angle to the “goalpost”. Then lift (two persons) a long beam to the horizontal position between the “goalpost” and the newly erected post. (17)

 Beamlock Instructions 17 - 18

Position the projecting tubes on the end of the beam around the single projecting tube on the cruciform, located at the top of the post. Fix into place by gently hammering fixing pins to secure the beam to the two cruciform’s, at the top of the posts. (18)

The structure will now be more stable. Continue round the frame in the same manner, erecting posts and securing each respective beam to form one “bay” (two long beams and two short beams) (19).

At each corner where all the required beams have been inserted to the posts, end plates are required on the open ends. These are for structural integrity as well as being a decorative detail.

End plates are fixed using the same method of applying a greased pin, gently hammered into position (20) & (21).

 Beamlock Instructions 19

Beamlock Instructions 20 - 21

The top of the post is now finished off by securing a top plate using two 100mm wood screws. Locate the four pins that protrude from the top of the posts and the “nibs” from the beam plates into the outer holes and then locate, drill and fix the screws into the two remaining holes (22) & (23).

The frame now requires temporary bracing to hold the posts to the beams at a true angle of 90º and to ensure that all beams are also horizontal (24).

To help ensure the frame is completely square, horizontal, and that the angles between the posts and beams are a true 90º, adjustments can be made to the height of the base plate using a 34mm open-end spanner (25).

Beamlock Instructions 22 - 23

Beamlock Instructions 24


Check the uprights with a spirit level (26) and the diagonals carefully with a long tape measure (27) to ensure the structure is completely square.

Note: Internal measurement from corner posts 1-5, 2-4, 2-6 and 3-5 should be 5.582m (refer to floor plan diagrams on page 5).


Beamlock Instructions 25

 Beamlock Instructions 26 - 27

Now the second “bay” can be added to the first, by continuing to erect posts and join beams until the complete two bay frame is erected (28).

In the same manner as before, end and top plates must be fixed to all posts (29).

The frame will now be complete and will require to be checked again to ensure ALL posts are vertical, ALLbeams are horizontal and that the frame is completely square.

Note: Internal measurement from corner posts 1-6 and 3-4 should be 7.273m (refer to floor plan diagrams on page 5).

Beamlock Instructions 28 - 29

Anchor bolts are then secured to all base plates in the same manner as previously described and the timber “shrouds” that are temporarily fixed over the posts can now be dropped down over the base plate to hide this fixing (30).

Note: Shrouds should be pinned a sufficient amount above ground level to avoid direct contact with any standing water (normally 6mm).

Braces are now offered up to the mortise slots to form a connection between the post and beam. Care must be taken to ensure that the placement of the braces is correct and that they are orientated in the right direction (see floor plan diagrams on page 5 for brace positions).

The metal strengthening bar that runs the length of the brace and protrudes at either end is offset to one side (31). This leaves the brace with a “thick” side (30mm of timber on the side of the metal strengthening bar) and a “thin” side (18mm of timber on the side of the metal strengthening bar).

The strengthening bar that runs through the brace is pre-drilled with two holes in either end. In the majority of applications it is the bottom hole (closest to the long wooden edge of the brace) that is used to secure the brace. However, where three braces adjoin a single post, or where two braces join a single post on the corner of the carport model, there is a need to also use the top hole (32) and a strict sequence of construction is required in order to complete the assembly correctly.

Note: Check all brace positions carefully before drilling.

Braces should be fixed with the “thin” side facing the internal façade of the structure and the “thick” side the external façade.

Beamlock Instructions 30 

Beamlock Instructions 31

Note: There are six braces used in the construction of the garage, whereas there are fourteen used in the car port. Please check the floor plan diagram on page 5 to identify where these are to be located.

For both single and double brace applications to a single post, the brace is held to the inside face of the post and beam with the “thin” 18mm section of timber facing inwards and the “thick” 30mm section of timber facing outwards.

Beamlock Instructions 32 - 33

Using the holes in the brace’s metal strengthening bar as a template, mark the positions to drill two 12mm holes, one in the post and one in the beam for each brace (33).

Drill to a depth of 70mm.

The metal ends of the brace are inserted into position in the corresponding mortise slots on the post and the beam. Two short securing pins are greased and gently hammered into the drilled holes (34). This secures the metal strengthening bar at either end of the brace and holds it into position. The short pins are covered with a timber grommet to finish off (35).

Note: Where three braces join a single center post, there is a sequence that must be followed in order to secure all the braces correctly.

For the bracing of the two centre posts to the long central beam, the mortise slots are offset to one side. In order for the braces to match up correctly the “thin” side of the brace (with the 18mm section of timber) should face the smaller section of timber, as denoted by the position of the mortise, on both the post and beam.

From the inside of the structure with the centre post in front of you (looking out of the garage/car port) measure and drill for the right hand brace using the bottom hole as a template. Then the centre brace using the top hole as a template and finally the left hand brace using the bottom hole as a template (33).

The braces must also be inserted and secured in the same order as described above - right, centre and left (36).

Beamlock Instructions 34 - 35

Beamlock Instructions 36 

Beamlock Instructions 37

Note: Where two braces join a single post on the corner of the car port model, one must be fixed through the bottom hole of the brace’s metal strengthening bar and the other through the top hole and then fitted in sequence.

Ensure all holes are drilled before fixing braces.

Continue around the frame until all braces are secured (37).


There are two additional posts that need to be secured halfway along the length of the two outer long beams. These two posts have a plain top and are 165mm shorter than the standard posts. These do not require bracing and are for support only.

The bottom of the post is secured to the foundations in the same manner as previously described with a base plate, having checked that the post is completely upright and that the top of the post is under the horizontal beam in the correct position. The post is then secured by drilling two vertical holes down through the top of the beam and into the top of the post. Fixings (6.3mm x 200mm hexagonal drive screws) are then inserted from the top of the beam.

The finished car port frame should now look like the picture below and is now ready for the roof components (38).

Beamlock Instructions 38